The Shepherds Way (Georgia)

Horses refuse to dismount steep slope covered with icy snow, snort, and bristle. Shepherds are to force horses down to where thousands of sheep have gone. Horses tumble in snow mass. Astonishingly only one of them crashes on the rocks. The others get up, shake themselves – they are ready to carry on. Shepherds cannot wait for the snow to melt on Bani pass (2927 m). They hurry to start the milking and cheese making. To do so it is needed to separate the newly-born lambs from sheep and this can be only done on the fresh grass of highland meadows. Every spring Tushs lead herds from one border territory to another: from winter steppe pasture in Lagodehi region (border of Georgia and Azerbaijan) to mountains in Tushetia (border of Georgia and Russia). Border guards know the shepherds and do not interfere with them. Following this ancient path 300 km long herds have been led since the beginning of time – since Tushs in 16th century helped Georgian tsar fight off Persians and as a reward received lands in the valley. Tushs as other Georgians are Christian orthodox. However, up in the mountains the Christianity is singular. There are no churches, and many pagan rituals have been preserved. On the way to the pastures Tushs stop by sacred cliffs and trees. Even though the sacral spots are named after Christian saints, by every one of them a ram is sacrificed. Even Jesus himself would not be able to remain “good shepherd” in literal meaning of the words. Shepherds are usually nervous and aggressive people. It is not easy to watch over stubborn, lazy and always trying to scatter all over sheep round-the-clock. Shepherds constantly yell at them, hit them with rocks and sticks. From the huge dogs that travel along with the herd, there is not much help: shepherds take them for protection from wolves that live in abundance in these parts. Sheep breeding developed in 20th century from mode of existence to business. It is a very hard living. There are 600 sheep to milk three times per morning. During the summer a shepherd has to repeat milking more than 400000 times. It is hard not to notice the shepherds’ arms: the hands are huge and nails come off every month. Hard work brings its results. The hired shepherds earn about 400 US dollars per month which is more than any grape grower can make, however, it is not enough for the work they do. The owners of the herds are quite well-off. 53-year old Vazha has 1200 sheep – they bring him about 40000 US dollars in revenues per year. However, he just like any hired shepherd throughout the whole way sleeps under felt cloak right on the ground, wakes up at 4 am, milks the cows – personally looks out for his business. Young people do not want to be shepherds – it is too hard. The owners of the herds do not want their children to continue with their business and their profession. Gradually tourism is developing in Georgia – little hotels are being built, horse tours are organized. Now it is obvious that once tourism would bring as much money as sheep breeding, the last herd owners would sell their sheep and that would be the end of unique sheep cheese, the ancient tradition would seize to exist. Images by Dmitry Gomberg