Locals wander through an abandoned juke joint in Baptist Town, a small neighborhood in East Greenwood. According to local historian Sylvester Hoover, blues pioneer Robert Johnson used to visit with the wives of men who were out working in the cotton fields around Baptist Town. That is, until he was poisoned by a jealous lover in 1938. The exact location of Johnson’s gravesite is still debated between three marked gravesites, which, along with museums and boarded-up or burned-down jukes, comprise most traditional ‘blues tours’ of the Mississippi Delta. There is a common storyline in many places around the Delta. “Most juke joints are closed,” wrote Hillary Rhodes for the Associated Press. “They have long been on the decline, drying up and dying out. People fled north, towns emptied out, shacks were razed, drugs and violence brought decay, casinos lured customers away and bluesmen kicked the dust. Writers and music fans have been lamenting the death of the blues for a while now.”