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Flash for M6 TTL
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I’m thinking about picking up a flash for my M6 TTL but I have no clue which one to purchase because I rarely (if ever) shoot with flash at the moment. I’m looking for something which can be hand-held off camera if needed.
Thanks for any help in advance.
by
_
at
2007-08-05 17:47:07 UTC
(ed.
Mar 12 2008
)
North Carolina
,
United States
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I have an SF20 which works great with the M6TTL. The TTL system is actually great – really makes flash operation a breeze. The SF20 is very powerful for it’s size. Never use the damn thing of course, once I’d finished playing with it when it was new. P.
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That seems to be my problem. I don’t want to spend a large amount of cash on something I’m not going to use much…but I still need it everyonce in awhile.
by
_
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05 Aug 2007 18:08
| North Carolina,
United States
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check out the sunpack 383 super. it is cheaper and smaller and lighter than the vivitar 285. I use mine at 1/16 power on manual mode or on one of the thristor modes (to get f4 at 400asa) and it’s recycle time is fast. It is a great flash, albeit nearly the size of the m6. Another option is the sunpak 144pc flash, only 2 thristor modes but it works great and has a bounce head as well.
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I really like the SF20 but rarely use it. However, when I do I think it’s terrific. For one thing it is “M6” size. It’s pretty small. For off camera use you just use the Nikon SC17 cord. When I use the SF20 I just use it for a “wink” of fill in dodgy available light. I expose for the scene and shoot with the SF20 1 + 2/3rd stops underexposed. Works great. Just for the very dodgy available where even the Noctilux isn’t happy. Heh. Oh, it does use the Lithium 123 battery which has a long life but isn’t as easy to find as AA batteries.
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I’ll admit i’ve found the SF20 to be damn impressive with fillflash and general shots where you need flash.
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I have the SF24 and love it.
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I’m glad I found this post. I use the SF20 on an M6ttl. In ttl mode I seem to get the exact same exposure no matter how far the damn thing is dialed down or what aperture I’m on. In other words, -3 stops looks exactly the same as not dialed down at all. All the connections are working and everythng seems to be in working order. Is there just something I’m missing here? And if you use the nikon sync cord does it still read ttl?
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