Wanted: Summicron-M 50mm

Hi there Paul why the interest in a 50mm summicron the 50mm summilux you are using seems to be more than getting the job accomplished from the looks of the images in your gallery. Nice work you have a good eye. Why would you give up a stop.

Thanks AH – glad you liked the pictures.

I usually carry two cameras: a ‘daylight’ camera with PX or TX, and a ‘low-light’ camera with pushed TX or TMZ. At the moment I switch the ‘lux between the two, which is a pain. The idea is the ’lux will stay on the ’low light’ camera and the ‘cron will stay on the ’daylight’ camera.

So come on guys! Who’s got a lens for me? P.

PS: I’ve just re-arranged my gallery, there are some different pics up there now.

I’m where you’re trying to go. I have a 50mm Summicron for “light” shoots and the 50mm f1.0 Noctilux for, well, you get where I’m going. Good luck on your quest.

Paul

I just purchased a 50 Summicron fro a guy in california who had it rebuilt. I found it on Rangefinderforum.com.

They have pretty decent classified (worldwide) and have sold a couple of items there and purchased a few.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com

Actually, figuring out how much to pay is the tricky part. Obviously it’s only worth what it’s worth to me, but I don’t want to spend more than I need to. I want the penultimate version, in other words the one with the integral lens hood, but not the digital contacts.

How much is this worth? I’ve just lost an auction on eBay when such a lens went for 677eur, which seems like one hell of a lot for a second hand lens. Or am I being naïve? P.

Anything here?

Paul,

For B&W, a 50mm DR or Rigid Summicron would be better, as it has lower contrast, although the
problem is haze.

A good compromise could be a black 50mm Wetzlar model, about
$500 mint.You won’t notice a difference between this model and the current one
unless you use a tripod.

A cheap solution (???) would be a used Konica KM 50mm f2 Hexanon, about $350. It’s as good as the summicron.

Good luck.

Hi again Paul. I hate the retractable hood on the new lens. Had one traded it for the last tabbed version same formula as the latest version but has a tab and conventional hood. When Leica failed to make the hood so it could be locked in the extended position it was a glaring design oversight to my way of thinking.
When I had the camera under my coat in the winter the hood would always slip back into the retracted position. If I carried it over my shoulder with the lens toward my body so as not to bang it against every person and thing in the universe the hood would always retract. It offers little or no protection for the front of the lens.

Well, I’ve bought my lens.

I went for the tab-less, sliding lens hood version. Largely because this is the style of my main lens, the Summilux, so I should be able to move between them easily, which is important.

Must admit I don’t have the least problem with the integral lens hood on my ‘lux. Never had flare under reasonable conditions and, while it does move when something pushes on it, it’s hardly a major struggle to push it back out again the next time you have the camera to your face.

It’s interesting – I never carry my cameras over my shoulder. I know a lot of people do but I find they just keep hitting things. I wear mine around my neck where I can get at them instantly and they’re less likely to get thumped, or in a bag on my shoulder.