Doing research/preparations for upcoming pj-reportage in Kosovo (2-3 weeks in June 2009). Looking for some answers from pj’s (or Kosovar residents) that has been in Kosovo after the independence and with EULEX mandate in power.

Does one require accreditation or permits from EULEX or Ministry of Foreign Affairs if going into the northern parts of Mitrovica and serbian enclaves?

I understand that in major cities, accomodation is available hotels and such, but when going to smaller towns and villages (extensive travelling across most of Kosovo), is it possible to find lodging by “knocking doors”?

What would an estimate day-rate be for fixer or driver with car (gas etc included) per week? (taking into account switching cars or plates when crossing Ibar river and when in serbian enclaves).

How is the bureaucracy nowadays? Alot of waiting time when dealing with governmental agencies and officials or more swift now?

Thanx in advance.

/SOJO